I’ve spent a lot of time in Kerala, also known as God’s Own Country, and it truly lives up to its name. However, it wasn’t until recently that I started exploring more of the state. In the past, I would travel to Kovalam every winter for yoga practice. The humid heat made the body incredibly flexible, and after an intense yoga session, we’d usually spend the rest of the day relaxing on the beach and taking swims. Some days, my yoga buddies and I would treat ourselves to an Ayurvedic massage or other wellness treatments. With numerous Ayurvedic centers and trained doctors in the area, it’s a great place to rejuvenate. In fact, these wellness centers have only increased over the years.
I’ve also enjoyed snorkeling at Vizhinjam Beach (learn more here), which I finally learned to pronounce on my last visit. In the photo above and below you get to see the town, port and beach of Vizhinjam. The beach is much quieter than Kovalam Beach, so sometimes we spent the whole day there. Another memorable experience was witnessing a procession with 40 elephants in a nearby town — a truly remarkable sight!
While I’ve spent much time in Kerala, my focus was mainly on yoga, and we only had one day off each week. On my days off, I’d head into Thiruvananthapuram (or Trivandrum, as it’s also known). As the capital city of Kerala, it’s bustling with life, and I’ve seen the Communist Party of India (Marxist) marching down MG Road at sunset — a unique and powerful sight. The Communist Party has been re-elected in Kerala, which is a rare occurrence, marking the first time in four decades that an incumbent government has been re-elected. Kerala’s literacy rate is an impressive 96%, and it’s equally high among both men and women.
Fun fact: I used to wonder what “MG” in MG Road stood for. I felt quite stupid when I realized it turns out it’s named after Mahatma Gandhi, of course ;), and you’ll find an MG Road in nearly every Indian city.
n some of my days off, I ventured to nearby temples and towns. For instance, on December 25, 2004 (the day before the tsunami), I visited Kanyakumari in Tamil Nadu, which borders Kerala. Kanyakumari is the southernmost point of India and is often referred to as “The Land’s End.” It’s a place where pilgrims from all over India travel, and the Vivekananda Rock Memorial, located off the coast, is a popular site. The town is named after the goddess Kanya Kumari, believed to be the sister of Lord Krishna and the goddess of unmarried women. According to legend, when Hanuman was transporting a life-saving herb to Sri Lanka, he dropped a piece of the mountain near Kanyakumari. As I’ve traveled, I’ve come across references to Hanuman more times than I can count! And, there seems to be a theme to many of the places I’ve visited, usually there’s something about God or the end of the world involved.
If you’re visiting Thiruvananthapuram, don’t miss Parthas, a legendary textile department store. It’s the perfect place to find soft, durable towels made from Rajasthani cotton—some of which have lasted me more than 10 years. You can also pick up beautiful bedsheets and fabrics made with traditional weaving techniques.
So. I’ve seen the communists of Kerala marching down MG Road, I’ve visited The Land’s End, and I’ve done a lot of yoga and swimming in Kovalam. But apart from that, I’ve not seen much of Kerala. Not until a couple of years ago when I decided to visit Varkala and Edava. To my surprise, I discovered that Edava is a great spot for surfing! Fun fact: Ramesh Budihal, one of India’s top surfers, hails from Kovalam (read more about his journey here). He must have been one of the kids running around the beach when I was a regular visitor during European winters.
This time I stayed at 3 different hotels around Kovalam and Varkala. First I stayed at a nice resort outside, but still within walking distance from Kovalam beach, called Uday Samudra Leisure Beach Hotel & Spa. There I got to see a traditional indian wedding with all the ceremonies that are included. So much fun, and interesting too! The guests came back to India from all over the world. After this is was time for me to get acquainted with Kovalam Beach again, so I moved to Swapnatheeram Beach Resort which sits on the hill between Kovalam Beach and Vizhinjam. I had the most beautiful view of the lighthouse and the Lakshadweep sea.
When choosing hotel in Kovalam there are a few things to consider. If you stay in the back, it’s usually a bit cooler but you’ve got mosquitos. The mosquitos doesn’t have to be a problem, when I stayed in the back of Kovalam I usually spent the sunset by the beach where there’s a nice breeze from the sea that chased away the mosquitos. When I got back to my room the electric mosquito killer usually had done its job. The hotels by the beach are usually a bit pricier and hotter. Kovalam is hot and humid, that’s why it’s so green and lush. My favorite hotel, just off the beach, which I used to come back to every winter is New Volga Palace Hotel. I was very happy seeing that many of my favorite places were still in operation, but sometimes, like with The German Bakery, the restaurant had moved to a more central location on the beach.
A fun and unique aspect of Kovalam Beach is that there are no cars. Visitors arrive by taxi or rickshaw, to either side of the beach, and then walk everywhere, either along the boardwalk by the sea, or through the narrow alleyways in the backwater. Hotels can send staff to meet guests at the taxi stops and assist with luggage. It’s fascinating to see everything in Kovalam, from refrigerators to supplies, carried by hand — I’ve even seen a man balancing a full-sized fridge on his head!
During my many visits to Kovalam, I often took the back alleys to explore. Not only are they cooler and quieter, but they also offer a shorter route. On my most recent trip, I noticed how the area has changed, with more hotels, shops, and Ayurvedic centers. But despite the changes, I still found my way around, and it was nice to reconnect with familiar faces. I was so happy to see that The Lonely Planet Pure Veg restaurant is still there in the back. It’s one of Kovalams best restaurants and besides having great food they also offer cooking classes.
Next, I headed north to Maadathil Cottages, a charming seaside spot between Varkala and Edava. The hotel has a great restaurant which comes in handy, you don’t have to head up to Varkala for food. From my beachside cottage, it was a short walk to Edava Beach, which is the main surf spot in Kerala. I was excited to take some surf photos, especially since I had seen many surfers try to catch waves at Kovalam Beach during my yoga days, but most didn’t last long on their boards. Edava Beach, however, offered a better surf experience with its lovely sandbank. Though the conditions weren’t perfect, I managed to capture some great photos. As far as photography goes, the conditions were great. The light from the rising sun was enhanced by the sea, allowing me to capture everything with a fast shutter speed of about 1/1000 of a second. It was just amazing.
As always, I couldn’t resist snapping photos of everything else happening on the beach during the two hours I spent there. The place was alive with activity — fishermen bringing in their morning catch, surfers helping with the nets, and a wedding photoshoot in progress. The interactions between fishermen, surfers, and swimmers created a wonderful, lively atmosphere. It was a reminder that even when you set out to capture one thing, keeping an open mind helps you appreciate the many other incredible moments happening around you. It’s also important to document the traditional fishing that’s still going on in coastal towns in Kerala like Kovalam and Edava.
I’ve submitted some of these photos to The Independent Photographer “2025 Visual Story Award”. When I heard about the competition the name “2 hours in Edava” just popped up in my mind and I knew I had to submit these photos and write this blog post. I owe it to Kerala and to myself, these photos needs to be seen, and the moment they capture needs to be shared.
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